The Brass Edition: Corfu, Paxos, Paleokastritsa

This week is unlike any other in that we had a full house; i.e. being joined by 4 hornists a trumpeter and a trombonist (Louis would argue Trumpets should get mentioned before Horns, though).  Fabian and his friends swapped their normal climbing gear for sea-legs, the occasional ginger tablet, life-vests and lots of sun cream. After a safety briefing and almost every life jacket we have being allocated, we set off for what was to be a fun-filled time.  In fact the greatest risk we faced was a severe shortage of paprika crisps and large enough second portions for the main meals but their outstanding musical talents and steely discipline proved soon very useful as choppers, mashers and washer-uppers. The following words come from the newly intrepid sailors: Helena, Lizzi, Sarah, David, Louis and Fabian. Mandraki Harbour in Corfu Fortress Some Yachts need Helicopters

Musos talking! On Tuesday we left the grey drizzle of England to arrive in the rather sweltering heat of Corfu (despite a 7pm touchdown). A taxi delivered us safely to the yacht, our worries when he appeared to be literally driving through what in England would have been a listed castle totally unwarranted. After a brief tour of our luxurious quarters we set out into the town to find dinner. We sat down in a swanky seaside restaurant that left us feeling rather inadequately dressed, ready for some delicious fresh seafood. we took a trip downstairs where we were shown yesterday's mystery fish (the waiter couldn't enlighten us) and were told today's fish would take 3 1/2 hours to cook. We then discovered that the €95 per kilo steak Peter fancied only came in whole kilos at which point we began to doubt our decision. When it emerged the waiter had no idea what part of the cow the steak came from we decided it was time to take our custom elsewhere and enjoyed a delicious meal at the restaurant at our own rather less extravagant marina. Who needs helipads on their boat anyway?

Wednesday morning, after a hearty swiss breakfast, we set off on the long sail to Paxos. About halfway through, we hit a nice patch of wind between the two islands and decided to break in the virgin sailors after a quick crash course in wind theory and knot dynamics. Each new crew member had a chance to learn the ropes, helm us across the rolling waves and gain a newfound respect for the sea. Lakka Bay was home to the first taste of the Med for these fresh, windswept faces and a welcome break from the trials of the day. Unfortunately, the churning waters of the unprotected bay proved too much for even the most seasoned of stomachs and we resorted to a late night snack and swift bedtime after some quite successful stargazing.

Baklava - no not the Swiss Breakfast

Mongonisi

Today wind was low so we motored the short distance south to Mongonisi, a beautiful bay on Paxos island. Feeling like experts from our sailing the day before, we sniggered at an hour-long parallel parking job from a neighbouring boat which eventually failed. We snorkelled and ate a delicious chilli on board. The heat of the mid-day sun and (for those with sensitive palates) the chilli inspired us to build a sun-protective fort out front out of bed sheets and bulldog clips. An afternoon of battles from the fort (board games) tired some of the party into a siesta. On shore we revisited our climbing instincts and scrambled to the top of a cliff, scouting out beautiful views over neighbouring islands and the deep blue sea. We calmed down with lemon sorbet mojitos and a nighttime swim back to the boat for a bbq. On-deck sleepers experienced lullabies from an onshore wedding, but were unable to contain their dance moves when the DJ span the macarena. 

Going ashore in Lakka - Paxos

Poster couple for the local water company 

Knots

Siesta with hat

The Godfather (book)

After a rather abrupt awakening from the engine coughing into life at 7am, our Friday consisted of a long trundle back towards Corfu. The sail made redundant by the complete lack of wind we were, unfortunately, denied the tranquility of motorless travel. This was quickly drowned out by the bose portable speaker (other brands are available) which invoked much jollity and dancing from Louis and face palming from Helena. After an hour or two of uneventful reading, board games and sun bathing, an excited cry of "Dolphins!" pricked the dozy ears of the crew.

Dolphin Sighting

More Dolphins

We all rushed to the front of the boat in time to watch a school of 10 or so dolphins breaking through the surface with their fins and tails. It was a magical sight and we got so close the binoculars were not required. Skipper-ing forward (you're welcome), we arrived at the port, Paleokastri, after emptying the boat of olives and crisps. After a much needed toilet trip and a short swim in very busy, boat infested waters we were instructed that one of us would have to scale the mast to change a light bulb (jokes on the back of a postcard, please).

Fabian drew the short straw and was hoisted up 63ft above the marina with a GoPro camera strapped to his head and a screwdriver in his pocket (at least that's what he claimed it was!). The view was incredible, just as the sun was setting over the mountains. It certainly gave us butterflies.	Mooring light
Is this really 63 Feet high?	GoPro view of the world
Saturday. After a cracking night's sleep in a sedate, yet crowded bay, we sauntered over to the village to use the glamorous facilities and then headed towards the vehicle hire shop with a hopeful spring in our step. Immediately we were confronted by a passive-aggressive, yet admirably passionately business-minded owner who interrogated us, as if it were the 'Greek' Inquisition, about our level of ability on riding scooters. After explaining, in vain, that although we were all very comprehensive and experienced scooters riders in the UK, we conceded that the riding style was a total juxtaposition to the Greek method, and gave up. The shop owner, with Medusa-like persistence and allure, attempted to persuade us to hire cars or a mini van to look around the island, but we were not deceived by this evil temptress, and avoided her scaly talons. We then hiked in pools of our own perspiration to the monastery that stood on top of the hill, which we found to be closed, and so instead admired the stunning views of the harbour and the sea, which glistened in the sweltering sun. After a refreshing ice tea and general discussion about the hardships of life we descended. The evening took a relaxed turn, with Peter making a monumental vegetable arrabiatta pasta, and the bay being lit up by the fireworks from the beach party close by. We fell asleep under the stars which glistened on the water.	Dramatic coastline of western Corfu Paleokastri

Paleokastri Beach	Diesel on the go.

Muted tones at breakfast

Sunday began with a 7 hour sail to the other side of the island. It was a rather windy morning with signs of a nasty storm brewing, hearing faint thunder in the distance. We anchored in the bay, to find ourselves diving into beautifully warm water. Having tried to ration our photos on our disposable cameras throughout the trip, we found ourselves with about 25 photos left with sadly only two full days to go. This could only mean one thing: today was the day for the family photo shoot. Highlights of the album include lining up in height order (not everyone was a fan of this), dives off the boat and the 'Octopus' with our heads together in the water. This was obviously total chaos to organise, but much fun was had by all. 

To conclude our photoshoot, we wanted to capture the elegance of 'creepy dave' in the dinghy. Whilst stood in said dinghy, the rope was slyly untied and thrown to him in an act of betrayal. Dave drifted out towards Albania oarless and motorless. Luckily, at sea a kind Italian family took pity on 'Creepy Dave' and towed him back to his loving friends.

"Creepy Dave" setting off accidentally

The aforementioned storm finally caught up with us while at dinner later that evening. There were incredible forks of lightning and heavy winds, pushing customers further and further into the restaurant looking for shelter. It was a long wait for the storm to pass, lucky our meals took 2 hours to get to us! We finally made it back to our soggy but homely boat, where Peter and Catherine heroically stayed up all night to make sure there were no serious crashes of boats in the wind.

Synchronised jumping

Conducted Flossing

Nighty Night don't let the bed bugs bite

So a week full of fun and great camaraderie has rushed by and it is left to Peter and Catherine to finish the blog.  Our slight trepidation in having a full crew on board vanished into thin air as we got to know and spend time with 6 great people, who despite being musicians are very entertaining and even have a sense of humour. For any of our Yachtie friends out there, we can highly recommend any of this lot as a comp crew team - although best enjoyed as a six-pack.

Trizonia to Corfu

Leaving Trizonia at dawn

Our unintentionally long stay in Trizonia due to the very strong westerly wind ended up being a very pleasant if somewhat of a forced vacation from all this sailing and relaxing. We also met some very nice people and ended up getting some excellent ideas for our Italy trip as well as cementing our plans for where we leave Rocko for the winter. It seems like Ragusa (Sicily) is the place to be, but more of that closer to the time.  We left just before daybreak and the stillness was quite eerie after days of being battered about by the wind.

Joining the mainland and Peloponnese

The trip westwards from the Gulf of Corinth takes one under the Rio-Antirrio bridge into the Gulf of Patras. This is a remarkable structure clearly visible some 12NM (over 22Kms) away and is the longest bridge of its kind. From the approach it looks like you can see the curvature of the earth, but I rather suspect that is just an optical illusion.

Looks closer than it is 

Deserted fishermen's houses Messolnghi

After a long day's sail we decided to stay the night in Messolonghi which, famously, is where Lord Byron died at the time of the Greek war of independence. The Marina is at the end of a long narrow and shallow channel lined with deserted fishermen's houses on stilts. It is a strangely bleak place, not somewhere I would recommend you place on your holiday destination list. It served its purpose for us though as we needed to fill up with fresh water and plug into power for a bit. We didn't find any ice though - and I now know how Byron must have felt (he died from a fever apparently).

Vathi on Meganisi

Since we had fallen a little behind schedule we had to catch up and get to Corfu by the weekend. Not wanting to miss too much, we picked out a few spots recommended by Kate and Davey and Vathi on Meganisi was the most memorable.  The whole of the inland sea bounded by Cephalonia, Ithaca, Lefkas and Zakinthos on the western side and the mainland on the east is a lush landscape that looks nothing like the barren islands of the Cyclades. The houses are also no longer the picture postcard whitewashed and cobalt blue doors and windows, but more terracotta and Italian in feel. Less dramatic perhaps but therefore crowded with charter yachts. In fact the days of seeing perhaps only one other yacht for many hours on end are over in the Ionian.

Jackie O's beach hut on Skorpios

Not bad for a non-morning person at sunrise

Heading north we then made our way toward the Lefkas Channel. This is another peculiar thing probably only to be found here in Greece. Lefkas is separated by another narrow, shallow channel and road access is via a car ferry that is wedged between the mainland and Lefkas. This then moves out the way hourly to allow boats to pass, thus making it an Island.  After all Islands get EU subsidy...

Traffic at Lefkas Channel

I said turn 'left'

Paxos

As we set off a tad late, we decided to stop in Preveza for the night and we found an anchorage away from the discos of the town quay which was quiet and protected. Our next stop was the Island south of Corfu, Paxos.  Paxos and anti Paxos look amazing in the pilot books and they are really gorgeous.  We only spent one night there as we're heading back next week after Corfu.

Dusk in the Marina this evening

I needed to find a safe harbour from Sunday and after a little research and phoning around I was able to get a place in Mandraki Harbour right below the Corfu fortress. Being slightly paranoid that it wouldn't work out,  we, I mean I, decided to arrive early.  The setting is very impressive and one has to walk through castle the  grounds to get the sailing club entrance. This fortress successfully repulsed 3 Ottoman sieges, the first being in 1537. Today the quayside offers crisp chardonnay and fresh fish on an elegant terrace, not an Ottoman in sight.

The moat at Corfu Fortress

Entrance to Mandraki Harbour

Corfu Sailing Club under the Fortress in Mandraki

Meganisi Anchorage

Poros - Corinth Canal - Trizonia

Leaving Poros 

Usually a lighter person does this..

Well, it has been a little quiet on the blogging front, but busy on the water. Since I last wrote,  I spent a week in Poros while Catherine went to  play a concert. My entertainment was the almost daily debacle of anchors being fouled and the local diver being called, something I managed to escape, miraculously .  The only, it seems, local diver was on speed dial and I saw him cash in €80 numerous times, sometimes even in one morning. Aside from this I had a few maintenance tasks to complete (some invented I admit),  although not many really as everything is still in good shape.  When Catherine got back we escaped the stifling heat of Poros and made our way to a lovely anchorage just a five hour sail away off the small island of Angistri. This lies just next to Aegina, which we visited some years back and my ears are still ringing from the memory of the discos in the harbour.

Angistri 

Entrance to the Canal

Angistri in contrast is idyllic and we spent two days at anchor enjoying the noticeably warmer pristine water. I didn't quite believe the water temperature gauge on the instruments so I pedantically got my multimeter out and set about calibrating the reading only to find that it was in fact correct at 28 degrees.  This, being the wimp that I am, is the perfect temperature for me.  This part of the Saronic is so protected in comparison with Cyclades that it feels like an inland waterway. Unfortunately superyachts seem to find this compelling too and our disdain is evidently not felt strongly enough to ward them off. There is something blissful about being at anchor and totally self sufficient for a number of days - this presumes of course that you have made the right provisioning decisions, which I am pleased to say we had.

On Wednesday we sailed toward Isthmia, which is at the eastern entrance to the Corinth canal. Everyone says it is an experience to go through the canal and it really is. Traffic is only allowed one way at a time and the management by the control tower is punctuated by fraught radio messages to skippers not paying attention.

Clearance deceives

No turning back...

When it is very busy the wait can be hours apparently, but we moored up along side the office, paid  the exorbitant fee, and a couple of minutes later the submersible bridge at the entrance was lowered and we were told to proceed. The limestone walls are almost vertical and for three and half nautical miles you are in an eerie engineering relic that serves no commercial purpose other than taking tourists through, being too narrow for commercial shipping. Usually there is a convoy  but we were alone save for a superyacht some distance behind us.

Gulf of Corinth

Once in the Gulf of Corinth we were greeted by a flat sea and mountainous landscape. The coastline is quite underdeveloped and we found a remote anchorage not seeing another yacht just about the whole afternoon.  The Gulf of Corinth and then Patras stretches less than 100 miles until it opens to the Ionian, but it has its own weather pattern and fierce winds seem to drive eastward when you're headed West and vice versa. We decided to visit a town whose name, Galaxidi, seemed to ring a bell and when we got there we realised that we  had stopped by there on a road trip nearly ten years ago on our way to Delphi, which is only 20 minutes away.

Galaxidi

The town is charming and shows no signs of any reduction in the standard of living that locals seem to continually want to point out. When they see foreign flagged boats they invariably say,  ah, you have a better standard or living, to which I say, yes,  but you have a better standard of sunshine. A brief  conversation with neighbouring yachites to compare notes on the weather confirmed a strong westerly coming in for a few days so we headed out to a sensible midway point in the gulf being a tiny island called Trizonia.

28kts on the nose

As we got in the wind started howling and at first glance it didn't look like a place to spend a few days sheltering, but around the corner from the forlorn marina there is a picturesque waterfront with several tavernas and a beach. Some re-calculating confirmed that we will get to Corfu on time next week even if the wind blows against us for the next three days.  Fortunately there are pleasant walks here and lots of time for me to listen to Catherine practicing Berlioz Romeo & Juliet  for the Proms in a couple of weeks time, while the force 6 wind howls outside. The fridge is working brilliantly though, so my hydration plan is bang on schedule.

Trizonia

A dodgy insurance claim in Trizonia methinks

Serifos to Poros

Moments before the storm on Kythnos

This has been a week of fewer ports but much wind. We hadn't planned specific legs of our journey except for a few, this Saturday being one of them, when we had to be near Athens for Catherine to fly out. The weather being what it is in the Cyclades, we have been trying to time this carefully and it had been going so well. Until last night that is. We were moored up in a peaceful bay on Kythnos which resembles a transiting location and had been watching an ominous cloud for some time and just as it got dark all hell broke loose and a we had lightning and 40kt plus wind in an instant. Some people got into their dinghies and went ashore to seek refuge from the lightning, which seemed like a risky thing to do, so we stayed put, didn't touch any metal and put VHF, phones and all the electronics we could into the oven which acts as a Faraday cage in case we got struck. By midnight it had blown over and an eerie stillness descended on the bay. The next day we met some crews in Poros who told us that they had been through it on Hydra and they had mooring lines snap and all manner of damage. All fun and games.

Sunrise on the way to Poros

Windmill island interrupts 8 hour tack 

Just before sunrise we set off towards Poros and the forecast turned out to be just we had hoped and we had a great wind on the beam taking us at 7 - 8kts across a relatively flat sea. 8 hours later we entered the Poros south channel. This is a busy place and the last time we were here was in summer 2007 when we sailed from Athens with our cousin Anthony and the whole family. Quite coincidentally we moored up almost exactly where we did 9 years ago. Not a huge amount has changed, although the quay is well organised now and the services are quite slick.  It has a very different feel to being on the remote islands and although this is a small place with limited facilities we have the feeling of being back in civilisation. I am sure it is a feeling one can tolerate for a week or so.

Me (white legs) haggling with the same water man 9 years ago

On the right - Skipper turns Violinist again 

Catherine set off to work for a week - taking a ferry to Athens  - the same one we curse as its wash causes havoc in the harbour. Just to make sure I am ok on my own this next week, she bought me a leaving present of some worry beads - or calming beads as they are more accurately called. I explained that the chandlers (boat supply shop) will keep me occupied as will a few projects I have to complete along with some of my ongoing Sommelier duties.



Earlier in the week....

Chora on Serifos

Looking down on our anchorage -  Livadiou

Serifos is a small island with a population the size of our High Street at home. Admittedly the view is better though, as well as the olives and Ouzo. The Chora is perched on the side of the hill and looks as thought it will slide off at any moment. We decided to anchor in the bay for the couple of days we were here even though the harbour has been completely renovated - the water is cleaner and rowing is healthy for you - I am told.

A recipe for anchor problems in Poros 

Poros from the hill