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Tuesday 30 August 2016

Apulia - Otranto to Santa Maria di Leuca.


The continuation of my stay in Otranto was slightly extended as Catherine flew to Lyon for a concert and, rather than practice heat management for a week (read: sitting in an air-conditioned bar), I decided to do an Open Water diving course at the local SCUBA diving school. People warned me that the bug might bite. 
After a number of days studying the theory and diving every afternoon,  it turned out they were quite right.  It was a fantastic experience and I think I will have to go on  holiday some time soon to go diving - oh, yes,  I am already on holiday... diving.

On the way to a dive - Acquario Nord, Otranto

Catherine came back after an eventful trip that saw her unnecessarily supporting the French taxi industry, but I am only able to recount that tale at a later stage when the pain dulls (just remind me to tell you by mentioning the words; missed connection, taxi, Lyon to Geneva). 

The next day Catherine's sister, Isabelle and our good friend Pam who lives in Zurich joined us and they spent the day exploring Lecce while I completed the final dive and theory of the course. Then, after stocking up with some amazing food and wine, we left Otranto for Santa Maria di Leuca on the heel of Italy.

A new connotation of "empties" for me.

Slightly confused seas, but a good following wind made for a rocky first sail for our two new guests, but we arrived in good shape and settled into Leuca Marina that was to be our base for the next days.


Burrata, sun dried and cherry tomatoes starter

Leuca is unobtrusive, yet steeped in history. Geographically it is where the Ionian and Adriatic meet and many historic influences are still evident in the architecture whether Greek, Arab or Ottoman. Below the lighthouse and overlooking the harbour is the water cascade which is the most southerly point of the Apulian Aqueduct.
A few times a year the water is blasted out at thousands of litres a second to clean the cobwebs from the system. The steps leading up to the top of the hill, the same ones that Mussolini climbed during its opening in 1939, are crowded with onlookers, but unfortunately it is not scheduled to happen during our stay.

Salento coast line and Grotto after Grotto


Cascade at the end of the 2000 kilometer Acquedotto Pugliese 




Leuca and the Harbour from the lighthouse




Santa Maria di Leuca Lighthouse



Some Images of Lecce - "Florence of the South"

Lecce - Florence of the South

Prickly Pears  - Pam still sports some of the spines



To the matter of Olives


For those of you who read my ramblings diligently, you will remember that I mentioned Apulia and the connection to Olive Trees when we were in Naxos. Well, we had set up a meeting with George (colloquially; Giorgio) and Mitsue and spent the next day in their charming company on their farm L'upupa just a few kilometres away in Salve.
George,  an Appenzeller, is an olive oil producer, farmer, raconteur and dry stone wall restorer par excellence. His knowledge is only exceeded by his passion and we wandered for hours and hours among 1000 year old trees separated on terraces by ancient dry stone walls. Afterwards Mitsue treated us to a feast from her garden and the world was whole again. 
George telling me that the highway code is only a guideline  
Trulli on L'upupa
1000 years old  - no, the tree..
George and one of his ancient olive trees 
In Giorgio's 1971 Fiat 500 Cabriolet - no seat belts 



Food in Salento (the southernmost region of Apulia) is a delight and I recommend staying far away if you are contemplating any sort of folly such as going on a diet. On Sunday we joined friends of Isabelle who are from Neuchatel and Leuca for an afternoon meal. The lunch went on until after 10pm and would have carried on much longer had we not have insisted that we absolutely couldn't eat another thing. Even the parking ticket we received for overstaying the metered time was written off by the local traffic person as we were obviously engaged in the important past-time of eating and drinking local fare.




Salento




Unreal looking tomatoes that taste too delicious

A photo doesn't do these Calamari justice

This week's crew all spruced up for dinner
The view South from L'upupa





Surveying the scenery with George


Maserati with Topgear treatment

After a dive


Famous Lecce Stone


Lecce


Lecce



Sun setting on another week

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