Entering Greek Waters

Crossing to Symi

Today we left Sailor's Paradise (Kocabahce Buku), Turkey and headed out into the very blustery channel headed for Symi. Sticking precisely to courtesy flag and Q flag etiquette seemed wise especially since we heard the coastguard warn a vessel off earlier.

You are entering Hellenic waters

Our new vocabulary:

teşekkürler = efharistó

lütfen = parakaló

merhaba = giásas

günaydın = kaliméra

İyi akşamlar = kalispéra

evet = ne

hayır = óhi

tamam = entáxei

Symi Harbour

Marmaris to Sailor's Paradise

Today, May 23rd,  is the start of our Mediterranean Grand Tour, 2016 (catchy title yet to be thought up). For the next several months, until the end of the summer,  Rocko One will be our home and we have spent the past while preparing her as best as we can for this journey. One that will take us from Marmaris to the Corinth Canal via the Cyclades islands, then on to the Ionian, Montenegro, Croatia, Venice and then down to Sicily and Malta. Some of our yachtie friends think we are mad to go to Venice; it is busy, shallow, expensive and Italian - but it is our 30th anniversary this year and it has to be. Whether we manage all the stops we plan is a moot point. You can always check back at the end of the year.

Familiar view of the Gulets along the town quay

Last minute provisions

Catherine arrived late last night from Zurich and was keen to get away from the marina straight away. So swapping her violin for sailing gloves, we  set off from Netsel Marina, Rocko's home for the past two years, and head for Ciftlik; it is only a short sail but the promise of good company and delicious fresh fish being the main reasons. Our comrades in arms, Kate and Davey, welcome us on the pontoon in this idyllic setting and we catch up over a few cold beers before enjoying a languid afternoon. The water is so pristine and inviting here that it seems to beckon to kindles - but more of lost gadgets another day. At dinner we meet Kim and Colm and the Irish contingent is complete, South and North, for a great meal at Deniz's restaurant.

The familiar view from Deniz's Restaurant

On Tuesday we sailed in a brisk wind down the peninsular to Bozukale, one of our favourite places along this coast where we moor up at Ali Baba's restaurant. Situated under an ancient Byzantine citadel (Bozukale = broken castle) this is a rustic oasis perched above pristine water which draws the hardy early-season swimmers (primarily Swiss) into its refreshing clutches.  The meal was particularly good this evening and despite what lies ahead we feel a bitter sweet moment leaving this special place.

Bozukale

 Our next stop is Bozburun, scene of mostly fond memories, but a few hair-raising ones too. Some bad parking by me a couple of years ago delayed our enjoyment of this quaint place as I continued to find spurious excuses as to why we should give it a miss. Finally I succumbed to sensible pressure and we discovered the delights of charming surroundings, great meals and, of course, the famous barber. Visiting the latter is a fixed ritual and Davey and I saved up a few days stubble in order to get our money's worth.  It pays to be polite to Turkish barbers given the speed and deftness of their cut throat razor skills. It is always a rewarding experience even if it is just relief at the lack of blood-letting.

Rocko 2nd from left in Bozburun

On Thursday we prepare the formalities for leaving Turkey and engage an eccentric agent, who rides around the harbour on his company tricycle, ponytail waving in the breeze. His modest fee and efficiency see us all set to leave after the customs and police are satisfied we are who we say we are. In the mid mid afternoon we sail out of Bozburun into a howling North Westerly - supposedly on our way to Symi, but unofficially we turn right and visit Sailor's Paradise to enjoy a last evening in Turkey. The wind really comes up and mooring at Sailor's ends up being less than pretty. Once again the food lives up to expectations and after dinner I am treated to a cake and Happy Birthday played by the owner on his clarinet. The tears in my eyes were not for sentimental reasons... promise.

Sailor's Paradise looking north

A walk in Paradise